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Archive for September, 2007

Saidi Wedding

In the evening my friend and guide Hassan invited me to go with him to part of the wedding celebrations of a friend of his in the village of Kom on the West Bank. I’m not sure how long the celebration had been going on already but this evening, he told me, there was to [...]

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Birket Habu, Malqata

This was my last full day in Egypt and most of it had been spent on Luxor West Bank. We were going there again today. Robin and I had visited Malqata earlier this year and I had fallen in love with this remote site on the edge of the desert, once the palace and town [...]

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Ladies Who Lunch

The next morning I had a message to say I had been summoned to the West Bank by my friend Haga Omm Mohammed who lived at Kom Lolla, near the temple of Medinet Habu. She had a gift for me. I was greeted with the usual smiles of welcome and invited to stay for lunch [...]

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A Trip to the Seaside

An Australian couple from our hotel were going to Hurghada so we arranged that I would share a taxi with them for the journey. Apparently the road was still intact after yesterday’s rain, which sometimes can make it impassable, so we left Luxor with a long line of other taxis and coaches on the 5.30am convoy. [...]

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Because of the feeling of tension in Luxor at the moment, I wanted to take a break and decided I would like to go to Hurghada on the Red Sea coast for a day or two. The idea was that my friends and I would take a bus from Luxor, but everyone said it was [...]

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On Sunday my two friends and I spent a whole day at Medinet Habu Temple - my favourite West Bank site which was so often overlooked by tourists in favour of the Ramesseum or Deir el-Bahri. Many tour groups spend only a morning on the West Bank. Time is necessarily limited on these tours and [...]

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Luxor Facelift

Luxor was changing. Since I arrived, I’d noticed a difference in the town. It was the 75th anniversary of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb and there were many events scheduled to commemorate it. The most prominent event was the performance of Verdi’s opera Aida against the stunning backdrop of the Deir el-Bahri Temple of Hatshepsut, [...]

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Another day on the West Bank. Three months ago I visited the tomb of Kheruef at Asasif and having read more about the mass of information contained in the beautiful reliefs there, I wanted to see it again. Kheruef, among other things, was a steward of Queen Tiye, the wife of Amenhotep III. At the [...]

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I was reading the book ‘A Thousand Miles up the Nile’. The author, Amelia Edwards, travelled to Egypt in 1870 and sailed in a dahabeya from Cairo to Abu Simbel, visiting the ruins on the banks of the Nile by donkey. Her book, published in 1876, immediately became a best-seller, a travelogue full of her [...]

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Haga Omm Mohammed

Haga’s other name is Omm Mohammed. Haga (or Haja) is a honorary female title given to those who have done Haj, the sacred journey to Mecca. Omm is the name given to a mother and Mohammed was her son, the first of twenty children she was to bear in a life of hardship and poverty in the [...]

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My two friends and I walked out of our hotel in the early morning and who should we bump into but Ali, our friendly taxi driver from our last trip, standing by the door of his cab in front of the hotel, looking stately in his long white galabeya with his gold teeth glittering in [...]

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October 1997 - Autumn in Luxor

Another long and tiring journey to Egypt and less than three months since I was last here. I just couldn’t stay away. It was early October 1997 and I had come to Luxor again with two of my regular travelling companions, Robin and Lucy. We landed at Luxor airport at 4.30pm and after negotiating the [...]

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West Bank Finale

Once more it was almost time to say goodbye to Luxor. Our flight was leaving late in the evening so we wanted to make the most of our last day. Robin and I had become rather attached to the West Bank of Luxor, not only for its monuments but for its peaceful tranquillity and friendly [...]

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On this trip we all seem to have made so many friends and met lots of new people. Egyptians are always so generous, they insist on you eating at their houses and meeting their extended families. It was difficult to keep refusing and making excuses, which seemed rude, so today Robin and I went over to [...]

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A Day on the River

By the fifth day of our short Egyptian break, and having worked quite hard so far, we felt we deserved a day off. Robin, Jan and I had negotiated a price for a whole day’s felucca sailing in a boat belonging to a friend of a friend. We were on the Corniche by 7.00am and [...]

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